I went to my mom's house to fix her Internet after contractors painted over her switch. So I redid the outlet (drywall fix pending) and ran new wires here, as well as a new line outside cause the last one gave amber lights

We want to get rid of our battery powered nest doorbell and install a ubiquity POE doorbell. I marked a red dot about where the opposite side of the current doorbell is located. Best guess is maybe try and go down the right side of the 2nd floor window, hope it goes about where the light switches are by the front door, then drill diagonally out to where the current doorbell is. There aren't any wires I could see by where the current doorbell is unless it's behind the brown metallic part we mounted it on. Any ideas or ways to go around problems we might come across?

I've been doing it this way for *years* and only just realized it was backwards. It's never been an issue because it's backwards on both ends. I know the electricity doesn't care what color the wire is, but I'm curious what y'all think of me doing it this way.

I probably won't change, either, I'm used to doing it like this now.

Hi; looking for help on an ongoing problem that I wasn't able to remedy.

For many years, my area has only had 1 "real" ISP that offered good speeds. Now, we DO have a fiber company installing, but it's been a very slow process, and unlikely in the next 6 months/year to reach my part of town.

I'm currently battling an issue where every day, at 5pm onwards, i get bad network jitter. The numbers range from an "average" of 30-50, but spike to 130+ frequently. Im aware this is peak times and am assuming this is due to node congestion. I know ISPs are awful for the most part and a single person doesnt matter, but is there ANYTHING i can do to get them to give a damn?

I'm relatively tech savvy, but not super. Here's what i've tried thus far;

Using their modem (Hitron CGNM 2252), with my own ASUS AC86U router with Asuswrt-merlin and Cake SQM.
Wired connection (tried multiple cords)
Problem still occurs if im plugged into modem directly without router.
Removed splitter from the coax line, as i wasnt using it.

It's just me, so i only have 2-3 devices using internet, but i game heavily and video call in the evening hours.

I am using graphs from the ASUS router page, as well as jitter.is. I have pinged and done traceroutes to various addresses as well. I understand these probably arent the most reliable, so if theres something you'd recommend, feel free to let me know.

tl;dr - jitter issues during peak hours; how can i mitigate or get my ISP to help

Hi everyone,
I’m experiencing severe intermittent rubberbanding and high latency (~114ms instead of the usual 15ms) when trying to connect to the server from Halifax, UK. This has been happening consistently for the last 7 days.
I run on Plusnet (BT Wholesale infrastructure). I have run diagnostics from both ends, is this a upstream BGP routing error where domestic UK traffic is being sent across the Atlantic Ocean, How can I fix this?

For homes that are prewired with Ethernet, is there typically a central box/panel where the ISP modem/router lives?

And would you normally need a network switch in that location, with a port for each ethernet connection throughout the house?

I’m looking at homes that are already wired for ethernet and trying to understand what the typical setup looks like.

I'm reconfiguring my home network to take advantage of VLANs and filtering. My current setup is Trusted, Kids, Guests, IoT, Cameras, and Management. I'm running OPNSense, for what it's worth.

Stuff like Guests get access to the public internet and nothing more. IoT gets no access, period.

My question is surrounding services like Plex. Plex's data resides on a NAS. I'm likely going to drop the NAS into the Management VM. Trusted gets access to Management, but nothing else.

What about Plex itself? Do I just add an explicit rule granting access to the Plex server? Or do I create a specific VLAN for that, perhaps a Services VLAN? I do host more than just Plex, but Plex is the low-hanging fruit to configure.

Thoughts on how you'd configure it?

So i have one Gocoax 2.5 moca adapter. I have my xb8 downstairs connected to the coaxial outlet that's activated by xfinity.

I went on the xfinity control panel and enabled moca connection.

Then i went upstairs and plugged the moca adapter into my coaxial outlet upstairs near my computer. And plugged the ethernet cable into my Desktop. And i cannot get it to work.

Do i need to have two of these adapters to setup? What am i missing here?

Hello! I am considering moving to an apartment complex that uses WhiteSky as its internet provider. At first, i was met with hesitation. But a resident sent me the speed test located above. Is this good? I am not tech savvy, but I am an online gamer and dont want to lag

Hey guys,

Fairly newish to the whole wifi setups. I recently moved back into my parents home as I’m a college student and I’ve noticed their wifi is BAD. I know their plan isn’t as bad as the wifi is acting.

I’m putting a picture as I’m not sure really what I’m looking at or what to do. I’m thinking this hardware is older than me lol, is there any of this I can upgrade and notice a sizable difference.

By the way I’m currently hooked up to Ethernet and still getting lag spikes. Any information is good information and I appreciate the help

I’m trying to navigate what plugs into what here. I’m fairly noobish to WiFi and trying to set this all up. My WiFi is powered on it’s just showing “no internet connection”

Not sure what I’m doing incorrectly.

It will be a 100 foot run from the box in. I was looking at this from Amazon

https://a.co/d/07M3VdqD

Just want to make sure I’m not crawling through my attic again…

Edit: this is to relocate the modem to my utility closet with the network gear my isp won’t run unless it’s outside walls.

Just archiving this info for search purposes.....

Purchased a TRENDNet TEG-10GECTX v5 10g PCIe Ethernet Card from MicroCenter.

Link to driver on instruction booklet gives a 404 error

TRENDNet support was confused and could not help find proper driver, kept asking if I had the CD

Found the driver in a root directory on the TRENDNet site through some Google searching

https://downloads.trendnet.com/TEG-10GECTX_v5/drivers/TEG-10GECTX_v5_Driver.zip

Driver installed into Windows 10 perfectly, no issues. V4 and earlier drivers would not work, don't bother trying to go down that rabbit hole.

Trying to utilize an old Lacie Quatra 2big usb3.0 as network storage through my Asus ge-be12000 routers usb 3.0 port. Drive is set up with 2 fresh out of the package 4TB barracuda HDDs in raid 1 (so glad I bought these years ago when HDDs were cheap!). Router documentation states that this router can support HFS+ storage and it even has an HFS+ formatting feature in the router. However, I cannot get the router to mount a HFS+ formatted drive, either formatted by the router or by my mac. It sees the USB device fine and when I format the drive as NTFS through the routers drive format feature, it connects just fine.

I'd really like to have these drives formatted as HFS+. These will be long term storage drives and I won't always have a PC around should I want to access these directly down the line.

Troubleshooting with Claude a bit and its saying that the issue is that when I format the drive as HFS+ through my mac, it sets up 4096-byte sectors and that the router is looking for 512-byte sectors (I think it's gaslighting me there). I'm seeing posts stating that journaling could be the issue but it's unreasonably risky to store anything on this drive without journaling. Also it could just be the 12 year old USB controller in the drive enclosure not working with the router but even when the router usb port is set to USB 2.0, the drive still fails to mount.

Again, drive mounts and network storage works fine with NTFS formatting.

Any one run into similar issues and have a fix? Should I just get a different Raid enclosure or standalone NAS RAID enclosure?

Would rather not spend money on this as this is a use what I got laying around sort of fix. That being said HFS+ formatting is a big deal to me so if that's not possible with the hardware I have, I'm open to other solutions that make using mac native formatting seamless.

Quiero comprar este rauter para un plan de 1g será bueno

I am shopping for a new router. I have a deco mesh, so I figured i would shop for a wired routers (one without wireless capability ) and save some money. BUT the wired routers look to be way way more money.

Why is that? Is it supply and demand?

Hello,

I have a MikroTik CRS304-4XG-IN switch, and I would like my PC and NAS to communicate directly through the switch, without depending on my ISP router.

My setup is:

• PC → MikroTik CRS304
• NAS → MikroTik CRS304
• ISP router → MikroTik CRS304

When the ISP router is online, everything works normally and my PC can access the NAS.

However, when the ISP router is offline or disconnected, I lose access to the NAS from my PC, even though both the PC and NAS are still connected to the same MikroTik switch.

What do I need to configure on the CRS304 (VLANs, bridge, IP addresses, DHCP, etc.) so that the PC and NAS can communicate over the local LAN independently of the ISP router/Internet?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

for starters, I’m completely inexperienced when it comes to home networking so forgive me if this seems self explanatory. I just recently moved into a condo that I’m renting and I noticed that my walls have Ethernet ports that I was hoping to connect my Xbox to. I got my own network set up through AT&T and the gateway for it was put into this panel built into my unit. The gateway has nothing plugged into its Ethernet ports, and I tried to look for cords inside the panel to plug into them to connect my gateway to my Ethernet wall ports but I’m not seeing any loose ends to plug in. I just see cords going from one end to another at the top, but I’m hesitant to pull on them in case they’re plugged into something I can’t see. Are my Ethernet wall ports usable, or is it not even worth looking into? My condo doesn’t really have anyone I can reach out to about this except AT&T so I just figured I’d ask here before I bothered buying a cord to plug into my Xbox.

My current set up is like so:

ISP -> basement modem -> basement router -> wired backhaul to upstairs router.

I believe the two routers are a mesh network. (Eero 6+)

The connection isn't great. I'm suspecting that devices are connecting to the basement.

What I want to do is have a SSID for the basement router and another SSID for the upstairs router. Switch is added so I can have a wired connection for my work computer.

ISP -> basement modem -> basement router -> switch -> wired connection to upstairs wireless access point.

The reason for the setup is that between the basement and upstairs, there is only 1 ethernet cable built in. If I just have the router upstairs by itself, my wireless connection from my office in the basement isn't great. I'm trying to get the best of both worlds haha.

Is that a correct understanding of a wireless access point? I could set up my basement router to have a wifi name like "Basement Router" and the wireless access point could be like "Main Home Router"? That way I could force devices to connect to the "Main Home Router" which should be a better connection.

Do you have any suggestions for wireless access points or routers that can act like a wireless access point?

I currently have an Orbi RBK50 router with two satellites (RBS50). The router is on the first floor with one satellite in the basement and another on the 2nd floor. All of these have a hardwired backhaul with Cat5 cables. Each device has 4 lan ports which are all used.

I currently have Xfinity broadband service with 2gb service that regularly shows 2.4gb incoming speed and have 105 devices connected in my smart home.

The Orbi supports a max of 1gb speed so I'm using only half of the speed I'm paying for.

I've been eyeing the TP-Link Deco BE63 because it supports 2.5gb speed and has 4 lan ports on each device which is what I have on my Orbi.

My questions are...

1. Am I looking at the right replacement, TP-Link Deco BE63 ?

2. Do I need to replace the Cat5 cables also? If so, what do I replace them with?